Frequently Asked Questions
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Q: What is the Tarptent return and warranty policy?
A: Tarptents are fully guaranteed against fabric and
workmanship failure and you may return one uninjured for a full refund
within 90 days of purchase if not satisfied.
That
means you can set one up, even try it out overnight, and then decide
if it's something that will work for you. Tarptents
that have been used in the field will be evaluated for resale and
partial credit returned to the original
purchaser. Tarptents that have been seam-sealed with urethane or anything
else other than silicone, applied as directed in the Tarptent product
directions, will not be accepted. Lightweight stakes are designed
to be inserted and removed by hand and not warrantied against breakage
due to striking with feet or rocks. We
stand behind every Tarptent and will make every effort to repair
or replace
products
that fail
due
to
defects
in
workmanship
or materials.
Normal wear and tear repairs will be done on a "non profit" basis
and we will provide a price quote before beginning the work. In many
cases, we charge only for the return shipping.
Q: Do Tarptents come with stakes and poles?
A: Yes. Every Tarptent
comes with one or more poles,
stakes,
guylines, and a stuffsack. The Contrail,
Squall 2, and Rainshadow 2 work best with front trekking
pole support but if you are not a trekking
pole user we offer optional lightweight and inexpensive front
poles that can be ordered with the shelters. We recommend two
of our poles for the Squall
2 and Rainshadow 2. The Rainbow and Double Rainbow set up
securely with the 6 included stakes but those shelters can
make use of trekking poles for deploying the porch feature
or for free-standing setup.
Q: Do the Rainbow and Double
Rainbow require
trekking poles?
A: No trekking poles are needed
for either model. For free-standing setup, the
Rainbow needs at least 51" (130
cm) poles and the Double Rainbow needs at least
55" (140cm) poles. An additional 5 cm helps a lot. Pole tip extenders
can be made from PVC pipe or, alternately, aluminum trekking pole
tip extenders
are available in the webstore. A 6" PVC
pipe extension adds 4" to
the trekking
pole length (since you you lose 2" in the overlap).
Q: Can I order extra stakes and
lines?
A: Yes. These items are available
in the store. Other replacement items are also available. Please contact
us for a quote.
Q: How do I clean a Tarptent?
A: Tarptents can be hand washed
in mild soap and water. We use and
recommend Woolite® Fabric Wash.
Q: Where are Tarptents made?
A: All Tarptents are made from US materials in Seattle,
WA.
Q: What are Tarptents made
of?
A: Tarptents are made of the lightest and highest quality materials
available.
| Roofing |
High tenacity 1.1-ounce/yd^2 ripstop nylon, impregnated
with silicone. Final fabric weight is approximately 1.4 ounces/yd^2. |
| Netting |
No-see-um. Fabric weight is approximately 1 ounce/yd^2. |
| Guylines |
Non-stretch, 2-mm reflective
cord with a spectra core.
In a Kelty branded package, it's called "Triptease Lightline™".
Weight is approximately 1 ounce/50 feet. |
| Stakes |
Easton aluminum. Stakes
are 6 1/4" long
and weigh 0.35 ounces (10 g) per stake. |
| Poles |
Easton aluminum 7075-T9 .344"/8.74mm
diameter tubing. Weight is approximately
0.5 ounces/foot. Some models
use 9mm poles. |
| Flooring |
Sewn-in: same material as roof(but in black)
Groundsheet: Tyvek
HomeWrap. Weight is approximately 1.8 ounces/yd^2.
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Q: I lost the instruction sheet, where can I get another
one?
A: Downloadable product instructions for the Contrail, Sublite, Moment, Rainbow, Double
Rainbow, Virga,
Squall, Rainshadow, Virga
2, Squall 2, Rainshadow
2, Cloudburst and
Cloudburst 2 are on-line.
Q: I have a small tear in the
fabric. How can I fix it myself?
A: Very small tears or pinholes in the roof or floor
are best repaired by applying pure silicone to the wound and letting
it dry. Larger tears are best repaired by coating the area
with pure silicone and then gluing down a patch of siliconized ripstop
nylon
cut to fit the wound. Netting tears are best stitched up. Scrap siliconized
ripstop and no-see-um netting are available
at no charge on request.
Q: Can I use my trekking pole as a Tarptent front pole?
A: Absolutely. A trekking
pole increases wind performance. Dual trekking poles are even better. Flip
the trekking pole over and insert the pole tip into the Virga/Virga
2, Contrail, Squal/Squall 2,
or Rainshadow 2 apex grommet. Standard pole height is 45" (48" for
the Rainshadow 2) but
can be adjusted upward to a practical limit of about 50"
(54" for the Rainshadow 2). The
Cloudburst/Cloudburst 2 has
dual arches and hence must use the included poles.
The Sublite requires 53" (135cm) or longer trekking
poles.
Q: Do you offer carbon fiber poles?
A: No, with the exception of carbon
fiber struts for low off-axis stress. Carbon
fiber replacement poles are available from third-party manufacturers such
as Fibraplex but the weight savings over our standard aluminum pole is small--the
aircraft grade Easton aluminum 12-foot Rainbow arch pole is 6 1/4 ounces,
a Fibraplex carbon fiber replacement pole is 4 ounces--and both the
cost and risk of breakage with carbon fiber is
dramatically higher. Carbon fiber is nowhere
near as strong as aluminum for use in arch poles where stress is at right
angles to
the carbon fibers.
Q: Is silicone-impregnated ripstop nylon waterproof?.
A: Silicone impregnated ripstop nylon is waterproof
within "normal operating
conditions." In very heavy rain and high velocity wind-driven rain
some extremely light interior misting is normal and equivalent to increased
interior
humidity.
Q: How should I pitch my Tarptent in a storm?
A: Tarptents should be pitched foot-first into the wind and rain. Tarptents
have excellent rear protection and can be operated even without the front beak
if
the rain is coming from the rear or directly overhead. In side-driven rain,
restake the front corner(s) as needed to lower the sidewall(s) and prevent
side spray.
There are also side pullouts halfway along each long side to help with side
wind and rain. Put just enough tension on the sidewall to prevent it from caving
in
but avoid pulling the ridgeline down. In front-driven rain, deploy the front
beak and move a foot or so back from the netting door. If possible, take advantage
of natural windbreaks to limit front-driven rain.
Q: Do Tarptents need to be seam-sealed?
A: Yes, it's a good idea to seal the the seams
along the rear arc and the pullouts to protect
the stitching. The ridgeline seam can
also be sealed but has proven to be extremely water resistant without sealant.
Silicone is the only material that will stick to the fabric. Urethane sealer
will flake off. An inexpensive product that works well is GE Silicone
II clear sealer/glue.
It is available as a squeeze
tube in most US hardware stores or in the Tarptent
Store.
Set up the tent ouside in a in a well-ventilated
location. Mix
about a tablespoon of silicone with a couple
of tablespoons of mineral spirits(paint thinner) and then
apply the solution with
a small foam brush. Add more mineral
spirits if
the solution gets too thick. Avoid skin contact and breathing fumes.
Q: I have a floorless Tarptent. What's the best way to stop bugs?
A: Bug protection is best accomplished by pinning the netting to the
ground to form a good seal. Place rocks or gear into the
interior
netting corners and at least one point along each long side. Properly
pinned, Tarptents will do an excellent job against flying bugs.
Determined ants
and other
crawling beasts will find their way in and we recommend that you
limit the temptation by storing food outside the tent.
Q: Should I order a groundsheet?
A: It depends on the conditions you expect to encounter and
your style of camping. The sewn-in
flooring is remarkably
tough and
does not usually require a separate
groundsheet.
We just never see floors come back for repair. Tyvek
groundsheets are very tough and great for sleeping out or taking
a break but generally heavier than you need just for floor protection.
For use on
very rocky ground and desert
conditions
where puncture wounds
are
possible, a light--2
mil plastic is fine--floor protector will
do the job.
Q: I need a tent for 2 people. What's
the difference between the Squall 2 and Cloudburst 2?
A: The Cloudburst 2 is designed for comfort; the Squall
2 is designed for efficiency with attention paid to comfort as well.
Here are a few points of comparison:
- The Cloudburst 2 has slightly more elbow room
in front than
the Squall 2 through
the peak height is higher on the Squall 2.
Two can sit up in front in both shelters. The
walls are very steep on the
Cloudburst 2, slightly less so on the Squall 2.
- The Cloudburst 2 sets up with only 3 stakes; the
Squall 2 works best with 4 stakes but can work with only 3 stakes
(with additional guyline).
- The Cloudburst 2
has
unrestricted entry/exit; the Squall with one or two front poles has
slightly restricted entry/exit.
- The Cloudburst 2 sidewall storm flaps allow the full width to be
used in stormy weather. When not needed,
the flaps stow away and the netting walls have the same dimensions
and
functionality as the
Squall. The Squall 2 sidewalls can be easily
lowered by restaking the front corners as needed.
- The Cloudburst 2 footprint is smaller.
- The Squall 2 may use one or two trekking
poles in the front,
the Cloudburst 2 must use both included
poles.
- The Cloudburst 2 front awning (beak) offers
good front door protection as does
the awning on the Squall 2. The
spit opening adds venting and entry/exit
ease of use.
- The Squall 2 is about 6 ounces lighter
and a better solution for one and two-person use when shelter
and
minimal weight are the
primary concerns.
- The Cloudburst 2 will
handle more snow loading without wall collapse.
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